Shortly after the COVID pandemic hit in March 2020, Fred. Olsen Cruise Line announced the acquisition of two ‘new’ ships from Holland America Lines – The Rotterdam Class ships ‘MS Rotterdam’ (launched 1997) and the near identical ‘MS Amsterdam’ (launched 2000). Rotterdam became ‘Borealis’ and sister ship, Amsterdam, became the new flag ship of the Fred Olsen fleet – ‘Bolette’ (named after Fred Olsen Jnr’s great great grandmother). After the 18 month cruising hiatus and major ship renovations the two ships returned to service in 2021.

You can find more photos of Borealis on my Facebook page here: https://www.facebook.com/gocruiseandtravelbyhelenworthington

‘Borealis’ named after a previous ship in the Fred. Olsen fleet, back in 1948, and inspired by the Aurora Borealis, weighs 61,849 tonnes and carries 1360 passengers. She will sail predominantly from Liverpool in 2021 and 2022, which for guests travelling from the North and Midlands, offers better train connections into Liverpool Lime Street (a 15 minute walk to the Pier Head or a short taxi drive) than travelling to Southampton. Along with her sister ship, they mark a step up for the Fred. Olsen fleet (which retired ‘Black Watch’ and ‘Boudicca’ at approximately the same time as acquiring these ships) both in terms of passenger experiences and accommodation: Former flag ship ‘Balmoral’ weighs 43,000 tonnes and carries 1325 passengers, so one of the first differences you notice is more space in the public areas and increased cabin sizes. New additions include the majestic and traditional two tiered main dining room (Borealis Restaurant on deck 4 and Aurora Restaurant on deck 5), an all weather swimming pool (due to the retractable roof covering the Lido deck. There are also a couple of hot tubs), a two deck high theatre – The Neptune Lounge with an extraordinarily deep stage (home to the resident company of singers, dancers and musicians as well as visiting musical acts and comedians) and The Auditorium – a culinary theatre hosting cookery demonstrations, often featuring dishes from the specialty restaurants’ menus.

Loyal supporters of all things Fred. Olsen may be reassured to spot some of the same well loved venue names on board, as well as the continuation of the ‘doodle’ carpet design (even masquerading as wall coverings in the corridors) and bright and bold carpets in the Atrium and around the ‘Colours and Taste’ restaurant – British made and reputedly chosen by Fred. Olsen Jr himself. All in all typical Fred. Olsen rather than being particularly contemporary. The Morning Light Pub (named after a four masted ship owned by the Olsen family in 1892) is still to be found, right in the middle of the Lounge Deck (deck 5), which offers a plethora of different and spacey seating areas and lounges including The Ocean Bar and The Piano Bar. Each one blends into the next, offering a lazy, enduring walk round the deck to find that special spot – it might even be in The Bookmark Café and Lounge or The Oriental Tea Room (especially if you are looking for something non alcoholic to drink). This deck is also home to the boutiques on board, including the first fresh Florist shop I have seen on any ship. However, Ocean’s members should get used to calling the Crow’s Nest – The Observation Lounge (as it has recently been re named). On deck 9, this lounge is huge with a bar, dance floor and enormous panoramic windows looking over the bow of the ship. Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines still offer dance lessons on board.

There are 17 grades of accommodation, across 5 decks, ranging from inside cabins to balcony suites, Premier (36) and Owners (4) suites. 50 of the cabins (across all grades) are for single occupancy, but are typically full size and there are wheel chair adapted cabins as well as part adapted cabins (fold down shower seat and grab bars in the bathroom). There are interconnecting cabins, some for 3 and 4 person occupancy and some with restricted views. Most of the cabins on deck 1 have a shower over a bathtub (a vestige from HAL days), although a lot of the other cabins have had the bath removed and now offer the more conventional ‘shower only’ arrangement. H grade inside cabins are 182 sq ft in size (cf Balmoral = 130 sq ft), E grade outside cabins are 214 sq ft (cf Balmoral = 165 sq ft). It is more difficult to compare balcony cabins, as there are only balcony suites on ‘Borealis’ (balcony junior suite = 244 - 283 sq ft, cf Balmoral balcony junior suite = 279 sq ft).

One of the best features from their days as HAL ships that remain (in my opinion), are the ‘Terrace Cabins’ –outside cabins that open straight out onto the Promenade deck (deck 3). There are 2 wooden chairs outside (not really a private balcony cabin set up though) and one way glass in the door (providing some privacy), but an ideal cabin for getting quickly on deck to see any wildlife swimming by, sightings of the Northern Lights and other aspects of scenic cruising. All cabins have a fridge, safe, TV and hair dryer as well as tea and coffee making facilities, UK (3 pin) and US sockets and USB ports.

All in all, ‘Borealis’ has 11 bars (many featuring different genres of entertainment throughout the day and night) and 6 restaurants to choose from: The two tiered Main restaurants (Aurora and Borealis Restaurants) are open for breakfast, lunch and evening meal. There are 2 sittings for dinner usually (6.15 pm (1st) and 8.30pm (2nd) but going forward there will also be the option of ‘Flexible Dining’ in the Aurora Restaurant. A nice option (utilising the same menu choices) is to book the Indian Ocean Room, a smaller more intimate space, with large picture windows, adjacent to the Aurora Restaurant, ideal for celebrating with friends and family and open for all three meals. Our 3 course lunch offered a choice of 2 starters, 4 mains and 2 desserts with all dietary considerations included. Evening meals are 5 courses with daily choices from 2 starters, 3 soups, 2 salads, 6 mains and 3 desserts. There is a plentiful supply of freshly baked bread, ice creams and sorbets, cheese and biscuits and plainer items like steak (+/- peppercorn sauce), chicken and salmon are always available.

The specialty restaurants offer an alternative for evening meals. Reservations need to be pre booked and carry a supplement of £5pp. On ‘Borealis’ they are ‘Colours & Taste’ (an Asian Fusion restaurant with an emphasis on sharing dishes, either at your table or the long communal table where you can eat with other guests (‘I det beste selskap’ – translated from Norwegian as ‘in the best company’. Dishes include classic Chinese and Thai items as well as spiced grilled meats, seafood, gyozas, dim sum and sushi) and ‘Vasco’ (situated near The View buffet restaurant and named after Vasco De Gama who was the first European to sail to India. It serves curries and seafood dishes inspired by the Goan chefs on board. The décor is warm and bright, matching completely the ambience of the restaurant).

‘The View’ restaurant on deck 8 is the ship’s buffet restaurant and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner as well as afternoon tea, late evening buffets and bedtime snacks. It is the restaurant to visit if you do not wish to partake in the more formal nights (with regard to dress code) on board. Individual cooking stations like ‘Distant Lands’, the carvery and ‘Sweet Spot’ offer favourable alternatives. Outside on deck 8 is the Poolside Café where you can find lighter dishes and fast food  for an al fresco lunch as well as a late risers breakfast.

On some days The Observatory Lounge hosts a traditional premium afternoon tea, complete with white gloved waiter service, a piano accompaniment and a selection of Taylors of Harrogate teas. This comes at a cost of £9.95 pp and as a quintessentially British experience is comfortingly indulgent. If you prefer specialty coffees and hand made chocolates head down to the Bookmark Café and Lounge and the adjacent library or The Oriental Tea Room, where the décor almost exudes the smell of jasmine and lapsang souchong or perhaps even a Tiger beer. There is also a card room and small gaming area on board.

Further pampering comes in the form of room service (available until 11pm each day) and includes continental breakfast, snacks and short lunch and dinner menus. Or even a trip to the Atlantis Spa with its Fitness Centre and Thermal Suite. There are nine treatment rooms (offering facials, body treatments and massages, as well as manicures, pedicures and a hairdresser) a hot tub/mineral bath, ceramic relaxation tables looking out to sea, two saunas and a fully equipped gym (including spin bikes, treadmills, free weights and fitness classes).

HAL ships are renowned for their extensive art collections and pieces remain on ‘Borealis’ from its previous life. The most striking is the 3 storey high Astrolabe in the Atrium which took over 15 years to design. Sadly, it doesn’t appear to be fully functional at the moment. There are also works of art retained from ‘Black Watch’ and ‘Boudicca’ as well as pieces curated especially for ‘Borealis’.

Continuing in Fred. Olsen traditions there is quite a strict dress code – especially for formal nights, when gentlemen require a dark suit or dinner jacket to eat in the main restaurant. Jeans in the evening are a definite ‘no no’. Dress code for most other evenings is smart casual or optional attire to fit in with any themed evenings (eg British night – wear red, white & blue). Drinks are reasonably priced on board (think UK pub prices) and do not attract the gratuity as imposed by most American cruise lines. Drinks packages are available: £35 pp/n for cruises of 5 nights or less and £19 pp/n for cruises longer than 5 nights. Guests need to compare this against: £4/pint lager, £3.20 single measure house whisky (£3.30 for Famous Grouse whisky), £3.35 single measure Gordons gin, £3.35 single measure Absolut vodka, cocktails start at £5.30, soft drinks at £2.30/glass and house wines are £4.60/glass, to decide which is their preferred option.

All in all ‘Borealis’ has taken on the mantle of a Fred. Olsen ship with apparent ease. There is a slightly traditional feel to the ship’s décor, but at the same time new features and experiences, along with an increased emphasis on interesting itineraries and the ability to get into small ports and areas of scenic interest (partly buoyed by the positive response to the enforced scenic cruising on ‘Seacations’ this summer), should attract and interest past passengers and new, alike.

Check out the cruise on 14th April 2022, from Liverpool which offers a 5 night circumnavigation of Ireland, sailing past the Cliffs of Moher and the sea stacks at Downpatrick Head.